Twilight Cruise on the Hudson and NY Harbor
My sister Pamela and her good friend Billy visited NY the past couple days, and last evening she took us on a Classic Harbor Line cruise in NY harbor with an AIA-certified guide, Scott Cook, who spoke very knowledgeably about NY buildings and the Manhattan, Brooklyn, and NJ waterfronts. It was far superior to NY’s more well-known and trafficked Circle Line! The docent Cook, one of six architecture professionals who work these cruises for Classic Harbor, was very good, a fluent speaker, quick to deliver interesting information on individual buildings, their locations, the architects responsible for them, and details of their design and especially their ‘green’ features. He described NY’s waterfront as our “sixth borough,” an idea that really appeals to me, and he broached urban issues, from climate change to how the Hudson River Park and Brooklyn Bridge Park are permitting high-rise development in exchange for resources for upkeep of these newly created public spaces.
The docents have to be quick because the boats of Classic Harbor are so-called ‘motor yachts,’ and they cruise at quite good speed. The vessel we sailed on was the Manhattan II, nicely appointed with teak and mahogany and lots of clean, clear wrap-around glass. Inside was a lounge with many comfortable seats at wide tables, quite a roomy space. The copy on the brochure and map they handed out (pictured below) suggests that these NY Harbor cruises are the least crowded of all the lines offering these boat rides, and I believe it—nothing at all like being on the subway, an unfortunately apt comparison for the ride I took a couple years ago on the Circle Line. Out on deck there’s some bench seating, and enough room to walk and stand comfortably, though carefully, leaning on rails and holding on to pieces of the ship. The captain was a rather young mariner, who helmed the yacht very ably, coming to a floating rest a number of times, near the Statue of Liberty, the shore of Governors Island, the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges, and Battery Park City. Figured in to the price of a ticket is a free drink, so Kyle and I welcomed the discovery that Yuengling’s light beer is very drinkable!
A coincidental sidelight made me eager to go on this tour: when I was executive editor with Times Books at Random House in the late ’90s, I acquired, edited, and published the 4th Edition of the AIA Guide to New York City, an essential handbook that has been published continuously since 1967, with a new edition out roughly every decade. The edition I published—by architect and pithy writer about buildings and public spaces Norval White—included entries on more than 5,000 of the metropolis’s buildings in all five boroughs, a book I still treasure.
I hope at some point to take Classic Harbor Line’s cruise that circumnavigates all of Manhattan, a three-hour trip, twice the duration of the trip we took Sunday night. Given my personal interest in the GWB, aka The Great Gray Bridge, and The Little Red Lighthouse, I’m sure I will enjoy that tour even more. Below are lots more of my pictures from Sunday’s sail, with commentary in the captions, though it’s a dead certainty I’ll come nowhere recalling most of the buildings and architects that Scott Cook named, but the day was so clear with abundant light, I think you’ll be able to appreciate many of the views and buildings anyway.
- Leaving the slip at 22nd St in Chelsea Piers.
- The Empire State Building is a near-continual presence when the motor yacht Manhattan II is still on the west side of the island.
- AIA docent Scott Cook on deck.
- The classical building in the lower foreground is the old Customs House. I love how the newer sits behind it. Taller to be sure, but resting there politely, not looming too gratuitously.
- That tall building is the tallest tower in New Jersey. To its left is the pop-drenched Colgate clock sign.
- The Colgate clock sign is actually see-through.
- As we neared the Statue of Liberty a vessel our vessel quietly slid past one called Zephyr, resulting in many good shots.
- We slid past along with the cloud.
- Some moments of awe as we sailed past the welcoming beacon
- Moments of Hebridean light filled the harbor and sky.
- The closest we got to Liberty Island.
- Ellis Island
- The west side of lower Manhattan, including the tower that’s replaced the twin towers.
- The tower in the center looks like a waterfall, shimmering with reflected light.
- I wondered if NYC’s canyons of skyscrapers surpass Chicago’s density of towers.
- Nearing the Brooklyn Bridge.
- Sailing under the Brooklyn Bridge.
- Dead center under the Brooklyn Bridge, for a few moments.
- Brooklyn Bridge entrance/exit ramps
- Cloud riot
- Carousel in the center under the Brooklyn Bridge.
- One of the pleasures of the cruise is seeing all the other craft sail past.
- This one should have movie music that goes with it.
- A sandwich of the classic Municipal Bldg and Brooklyn Bridge with the soul-less (and nearly windowless) Verizon Bldg.
- Manhattan Bridge
- The Manhattan Bridge is clad in a blue enamel paint.
- A treat to see both bridges, Brooklyn and Manhattan.
- The old rail car transfer station at 60th St along the Hudson, seen from 20th St, about as far uptown as we sailed.
- Looking all the way up the Hudson from around 20th St (the Little Red Lighthouse is visible under the eastern strut of the great gray bridge.
- The brick colored buildings are part of Battery Park City, built on landfill. The building in the foreground is a classical beaut.
- A colony of copper roofs with their green patinas.
- We curled around the bottom of Manhattan island and sailed toward Brooklyn and Governors Island.
- At 1,776 ft the new tower stands over its neigbhor skyscrapers.
- They seem so close together.
- The old and new arrayed in verticality.
- Docent Scott Cook referred to “the orange eyelashes” of the ferry slips on the left.
- The steeped atrium (l.) warranted a mention by the docent.
- Coming back up the Hudson toward the 22nd St slip, the sky had darkened a bit, though rain never really seemed likely.
- Frank Gehry building in ice-crystal white, in front of and left of the Empire State Bldg.
- The building in the center made me think of a pope’s hat. The docent talked about the courtyard opening in the center.
- Kayakers on the Hudson.
- This is the only time I’ve ever liked the look of the big Trump buildings on Manhattan’s west side between 50th and 60th Sts.
- Empire State Bldg in an inky blue-black-purple sky.
- I got Kyle bathed in golden light.
- Pam & Billy
- Classic Harbor Lines’ brochure has more than 150 numbered sites.
- At the bottom of this portion of the brochure is info on Classic Harbor Lines.
- This end of the map shows lower Manhattan and NY Harbor.
- The reverse of the brochure sports a map of Manhattan & the waters around the island. This side shows upper Manhattan, the Bronx and Randall’s Island.
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