George Washington Bridge | The Great Gray Bridge

Some Early Spring Hudson River Views

Following many days of late winter gloom and cold winds off the Hudson River where I regularly ride my bike things brightened up a bit today. With temps edging over 50 degrees and light to moderate winds, I wasn’t forced to don the usual gear I’ve been wearing on my rides since the fall. More lightly clad than usual, I pedaled north along the river, stopping for a break about even with 140th Street. Perched atop an old picnic table I read my current book, Heretics: Adventures With the Enemies of Science by British journalist Will Storr; phoned my sister to wish her a happy Passover; and took these pics of the Hudson and the Jersey side of the river. Even with the noticeable warming, there were still a lot gray, glowering clouds hanging low in the sky, but maybe now we’re in for a spell of fair weather.

: The eastern arch of the Great Gray Bridge.

: Lots of gray and glowering clouds today.

: The trees will soon start showing leaves.

: Facing north toward the Great Gray Bridge.

: The straw-colored grass will soon go green.

: I wasn’t the only biker out today.

: The Great Gray Bridge, about 40 blocks north of my perch along the Hudson.

: Gray and glowering clouds over New Jersey.

: The light this afternoon was almost Hebridean.

: Looking south along the Hudson.

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A Spring Sailing Around Manhattan

My wife and son and I had been wanting to see New York’s five boroughs from the water, so last Friday we took the Circle Line cruise around Manhattan, which does offer views of each borough. Unfortunately, it was a disappointment. We arrived 45 minutes early for the 11:30 AM sailing, only to find that all outdoor seats on our boat had already been taken. Worse, the guide on our boat was a pompous jerk who droned on ceaselessly during our 3-hour circumnavigation of the island. He had no feel for the history of the city; scolded passengers like a control-obsessed school teacher (“Don’t stand there!”) and was fascinated only with money. (“An apartment in that building sold for $20 million last year.”) Fortunately, about halfway through the cruise, I found us three seats on the open deck, and Kyle, Ewan, and I escaped the guide’s physical presence, if not his amplified voice. From this perspective, we were able to view Upper Manhattan, Sputen Duyvil, the waterway that connects the Harlem River to the Hudson, and the little red lighthouse as we sailed beneath the George Washington Bridge, aka the Great Gray Bridge. We also were able to ID our own apartment building from the river, a neat trick.

The best part of the afternoon came when we got home and downloaded the photos each of us took turns snapping during the cruise. Even if the boat ride regrettably didn’t feature much of the timeless magic we identify with New York’s waterways, harbor, and shoreline, such as that seen in the 1920s short film “Manhatta,” it was a grand day and we took away some great images, many of which are included here. // many pictures following . . .

: Colgate sign on Queens shoreline

: Ellis Island

: Statue of Liberty, burnished by sunshine.

: Brooklyn Bridge.

: Domino Sugar refinery.

: Queens’ Pepsi Cola sign, opposite the E. 50s in Manhattan.

: This patch of the shore looked like it could be in upstate NY.

: Encrusted brick ruin.

: Entering the Hudson from Sputen Duyvil in upper Manhattan.

: Nearing the GWB and the little red lighthouse.

: Landmarks with yellow-chartreuse shoreline.

: The Great Gray Bridge looms overhead.

: Washington Heights towers in the background, even with W. 178th St.

: The bridge stretches out like an enormous yardstick.

: An inverted ‘U’ and a red finger with a white cap

: Spanning the Hudson.

: Grant’s Tomb and Riverside Church, about even with 125th St.

: The tallest building, with the black top, is the Master, an art deco residential tower, one block north of our own building.

: Our apartment building is 9 stories high tucked between two taller buildings peeking over trees a block south of the Master.

: On the right, our building’s nestled between two taller buildings.

: Our building–a junior cousin to its neighbors.

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How This Blog Got its Name

In a previous blog post, “An 80th Birthday Makeover for The Great Gray Bridge,” dear reader, you will note I’ve borrowed the name for that entry, and the name for this very blog, from a nickname for the George Washington Bridge first used decades ago. My source is the 1942 children’s book The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge written by Hildegarde H. Swift and illustrated by Lynd Ward, creator of the remarkable wordless novel, God’s Man, which was published in 1929, the very week of the stock market crash. It is a source of joy and pride for me that I am able to borrow from that classic the name for this blog “spanning urban life, books, music, culture, current events.” Below are some pertinent photos I’ve taken of the bridge, the lighthouse, the river, and the grounds surrounding them on the Manhattan side of the Hudson. I’d understand if some of these scenes surprise you with just how sweet, bucolic, and pretty the shoreline of upper Manhattan really is. That’s New York City, for you, full of surprises for the eager observer.

Two final notes:

The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge remains in print today;
Thank you to web designer and friend, Harry Candelario, who adapted one of my photographs for the backdrop art for the home page of The Great Gray Bridge.

: The little red lighthouse below the great gray bridge on a fall day, 2011

: The bike path leading to the little red lighthouse, under the bridge.

: The little red lighthouse below the great gray bridge on a fall day, 2011

: A placard tells the story of the red lighthouse and the gray bridge

: The underside of the great gray bridge.

: The red lighthouse, looking south.

: A placard tells the publishing story of “The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge.”

: The cover of “The Little Red Lighthouse and the Great Gray Bridge.”

: The bridge from the shoreline of upper Manhattan.

: The western span of the bridge, looking on to the Palisades in NJ.

: The shoreline of upper Manhattan, looking north to the bridge.

: The western arch of the Great Gray Bridge, quite silvery on this fall day.

: Upper Manhattan shoreline, looking north to the span.

: Low tide on the Hudson.

: Low tide, marsh grass on the Hudson, upper Manhattan.

: A glassy Hudson on a calm fall day.

: Hudson Beach on a brilliant fall day, 2011

All photographs: Philip Turner

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An 80th Birthday Makeover for The Great Gray Bridge

Opening to traffic in 1931, the George Washington Bridge is for the first time going to get a refit of a key component of its structural integrity. According to a Dec. 9 New York Times article, the 592 signature “vertical suspender ropes,”

Note the rust creeping in and around one of the 592 vertical suspender ropes on the GW Bridge. Photo credit: Benjamin Norman for the New York Times

each one made of 283 individual strands of steel wire, will be replaced over the next eight years. Each rope–the term engineers use for them, though they are not made of hemp, but steel–is a different length and weight, depending on where they fit to one of the four main cables that form the horizontal necklaces that arc along the entire length of the bridge. The lightest of the vertical suspender ropes weighs 1,500 pounds, and the heaviest 10,000 pounds. These shots by New York Times photographer show what’s at stake in replacing the ropes.

This view shows several of the vertical suspender ropes connecting at the top of the photo to the arching stell cables. Photo credit: Benjamin Norman for the New York Times

From a favorite college professor long ago I heard that the French Catholic theologian and philosopher Jacques Maritain swore that the sight of the George Washington Bridge and Manhattan, as seen traveling south on the Henry Hudson Highway, was the most breathtaking view he ever experienced. Reading about this essential renovation of such a key piece of our urban infrastructure, I am mindful that the stock market crash of 1929, might’ve delayed the engineering and construction of The Great Gray Bridge, but that didn’t happen. I’m grateful that the span across the Hudson did not fall victim to the Great Depression. Considering the resistance to creating and even maintaining infrastructure among many right-wing politicians today, I am also grateful that the Port Authority of NY and NJ have shown the foresight and good judgment to undertake this key renovation now, despite the economic conditions prevailing today.

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